Hijrah Journal #7: Istanbul Adventures

During my adventures, I have traveled twice to Istanbul. Both trips were a year apart and served very different purposes. When we decided that we need to leave in 2021, we were deep in a pandemic/lockdown, and travel was not possible. During this period, however, many people I knew had moved to Istanbul as Türkiye was one of the few countries that remained open to travel and migration during that chaotic period. When travel reopened in 2022, I booked a trip to Istanbul to meet my friends who had moved there and scout it as potential Hijrah location. A year later, I booked a second trip to Istanbul to attend an Islamic conference, and network with likeminded individuals.

Both trips helped me see Türkiye from different perspectives. In my first trip, I stayed in the tourist district, visited multiple tourist sites, and caught up with old friends. During my second trip, I stayed in a conservative religious neighborhood, attended Islamic lectures, and made more friends and connections at networking events. Between the two trips, I got to see how divided Türkiye really is between religious and secular. Every Muslim country has their religious Muslims and their secular Muslims, but the divide in Türkiye is bigger, stronger, and more apparent than in other lands.

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The Türkiye I thought I knew

Türkiye is a land that I never really considered for Hijrah or even travel before 2020. The image of Türkiye is my mind was one of radical secularism run by Kemalists. Historically, after the fall of the Ottoman Empire, secularism was forced on the Turks in a brutal manner, creating a new culture that was not just unislamic, but antagonistic to Islam. This was a land in which hijabs and beards were banned, while alcohol and other sins were legalized and normalized. The image of Türkiye in my mind was one of secularism and sin, an unwelcoming environment for the religious Muslim.

I did not realize at the time that there was a massive Islamic revival happening in Türkiye. Over the past few decades, more young people in Türkiye returned to their religious roots reshaping the culture in multiple neighborhoods. The government, under the leadership of Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, played a major role in making the country less hostile to religious Muslims, and creating an environment in which religious revival was possible, and happening at a fast pace. During my second trip, I visited a neighborhood in which just fifteen years ago, you would not spot a single woman in hijab. Now, half of the women were in hijab, and a significant percent in niqab. This was just one of many signs of the revival happening on the ground. Türkiye is changing for the better, but it may take another generation or two before it becomes a truly Islamic land again.

A culture of contradictions

Türkiye is a land of contradictions. Visit the right neighborhood and you will find beautiful masjids, pious shaykhs, and thriving madrassas. Enter the wrong neighborhood that you will find Muslims openly drinking alcohol, dressing immodestly, and being aggressive to hijabi women. The culture from one neighborhood to another changes so radically, that it is difficult to a newcomer to figure out the land. It is true that every Muslim land has their sinful districts, but in most, these are hidden and shameful. Secular Turks are open and proud of their sinful habits.

The Beauty of Istanbul

Istanbul is one of the largest, oldest, and most beautiful cities in the world. Going back to Byzantium times, Istanbul (then Constantinople) has been a leading global city for thousands of years. When you walk through the streets of Istanbul, you see and feel this history. The buildings and architecture that surround you represent dozens of cultures across multiple time periods. Historical sites can be found at every corner, and you can even find restaurants and coffee shops that are hundreds of years old. For lovers of history and architecture, Istanbul is a dream city to visit.

The beauty of Istanbul is not limited to its buildings. The parks, the Bosphorus Strait, and everything natural around you is beautiful. There are plenty of green spaces for walking in, and many ways to get around the city. Istanbul is a beautiful land, and this makes it a great place to visit at least once in one’s lifetime. It is also one of the largest cities in the world, and it can take years to explore all of its neighborhoods and historical sites. It is truly a city of wonder.

The Challenges of Istanbul

There are many challenges related to moving to Türkiye that make it a less-than-ideal destination for immigration. Inflation is out of control, causing major economic problems that affect everyone. This is turn has created a hostile environment in which some locals blame foreigners and immigrants for the inflation, and take out their anger on them. There is a lot of xenophobia and open hostility towards immigrants in some parts of the city, making it a difficult place to settle and relax in.

Türkiye is also extremely monocultural, and they take their culture very seriously. If someone moves to Türkiye, they are expected to very quickly learn the language, adapt to the culture, and let go of any cultural practices that stand out. Moving to Türkiye is only for those willing to embrace an entirely new culture and language. For those who find this difficult, it may be better to look elsewhere.

My Review of Istanbul

Türkiye is a beautiful land filled with history and amazing places to explore. There are many wonderful people to meet and plenty to do. If you look hard enough, you can find Islamic neighborhoods to move to, which have high quality of life, along with a great religious atmosphere.

However, at this point, I would label Türkiye as a great vacation destination but not a great Hijrah destination. It is difficult to get visas to stay in Türkiye for any significant period of time, and you may encounter open hostility, racism, and xenophobia if you walk into the wrong neighborhood. The economy is currently unstable and cost-of-living has risen a lot. There is a major divide between the seculars and the religious, and this sometimes leads to open aggression. Due to all these factors, I cannot recommend it at this time as a Hijrah destination.

However, if you have wealth, then it may be a great option. As it stands, Türkiye is the only Muslim country I know of that offers citizenship via investment. Simply purchasing a property above a certain value there can grant you citizenship, and open the door to travel to many other lands. So for wealthy Muslims, it remains a great option. For everyone else, I would recommend visiting to take in the historical sites, but be cautious if you plan on moving there.

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